The Ternes Wagram Pereire neighborhood is located in the heart of the 17th arrondissement, close to the Place de l’Etoile and the Champs-Elysées. It’s an authentic, charming, Parisian neighborhood which lots to offer foodies since it has excellent food markets, an entire foodie street, cafes, bakeries, cheese shops and restaurants galore! Check out all our Paris Guides here!
Ternes Wagram Pereire Neighborhood Guide
Read on to discover this fabulous neighborhood!
The Ternes Wagram Pereire Neighborhood Vibe
The Ternes Wagram Pereire neighborhood is primarily residential. What we love about the neighborhood is that it feels like a real, authentic Parisian neighborhood (because it is!). You’ll see families bringing their kids to school, elderly couples walking arm in arm through the Promenade Pereire every afternoon and people walking their dogs each evening. Real life in its simplicity and beauty is happening wherever you look.
That being said, we have one famous monument close by (the Arc de Triomphe) as well as one very famous avenue (the Champs-Elysées) that are definitely not to be missed during your stay.
Things to do/see (the main sights in the area!)
Arc de Triomphe
Climb the Arc de Triomphe for one of the best views of Paris!
Champs-Elysées
In this neighborhood, you are just steps away from the legendary Champs-Elysées. In my opinion, the best time to walk up and down the Champs-Elysées anytime of year is at night.
In the Winter, the famous avenue sparkles with Christmas lights and in the Summer, it’s the perfect place for a late night, baumy promenade.
There are often fewer people walking on the Champs-Elysées at night, it’s the perfect place to window shop with all the beautiful stores lit up, and so fun to go for an evening drink.
The best spots for a drink and/or dinner on the Champs-Elysées are the Drugstore, Fouquet’s and Brasserie Alsace.
Just off the Champs-Elysées, Casa Luca is really nice for an Italian-inspired cocktail (and delicious and authentic pizza and pasta).
Sir Winston serves British and Indian food. The food and drinks are delicious and the interiors are lovely.
If you are walking on the Champs-Elysées during the day and are looking for a great place to stop for coffee, head to Bacha Coffee, the Parisian outpost of the famous Moroccan coffee shop.
Bakeries (for croissants/pains au chocolat and bread)
There are several good bakeries in the neighborhood and three exceptional bakeries.
French Bastards
In my humble opinion, French Bastards offers the best croissant in Paris (and we have tried a lot!). It is flaky, crunchy on the outside, chewy on the inside and had just the right amount of butter (copious amounts!).
French Bastards is a solid choice for bread as well (although they don’t sell baguette, only loaves and half loaves of bread).
The pain au chocolat at French Bastards is tasty but it is a second runner up to the pain au chocolat at Arlette et Colette.
Address : 35 Place Saint-Ferdinand 75017 Paris
Arlette et Colette
The best pain au chocolat in the neighborhood can be found at Arlette et Colette. Their pain au chocolat has double sticks of dark chocolate and is flaky and perfectly buttery.
Arlette et Colette sells some of the best pastries in the neighborhood too. Our favorites are the pear and chocolate tart and their flan (which is actually what they are best know for!).
Address : 13 rue Lebon 75017 Paris
Pastries/sweets
You’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to delicious pastries in the Ternes Wagram Pereire neighborhood!
Chapon
If you are in the mood for Heavenly chocolate mousse, head to the chocolate mousse bar at Chapon.
We actually wrote about the Chapon near Saint Sulpice in the past if you want to see an in depth look at what they offer.
Address : 11 rue Poncelet 75017 Paris
Arlette et Colette
As I said earlier, Arlette et Colette offers some of the best pastries in the neighborhood.
They are best known for their incredible flan which we love. Their pear and chocolate tart is very tasty too!
Pierre Hermé
Voted Best Pastry Chef in the World in 2016, Pierre Hermé is an absolute legend. He has several stores all over Paris that sell his famous macarons, chocolates and pastries (individual portions and larger cakes).
As you can imagine, everything there is delicious.
In our opinion, Pierre Herme’s macarons are the best macarons (better than Ladurée, although we love those too!). My favorite flavors are caramel, dark chocolate and the Mogador (milk chocolate and passion fruit). Hugo’s favorite flavor is the vanilla and olive oil which is seasonal and unfortunately not available all the time. He is also famous for the Ispahan (lychee, rose and raspberry) which is delicious too!
The pastry we love the most and often get for special occasions is the deux mille feuilles, a larger and more decadent spin off of a classic millefeuille (layers of crunchy pastry separated by rich and creamy hazelnut praline pastry cream. It’s very very delicious!
Address : 37 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris
La Pâtisserie Cyril Lignac
La Pâtisserie Cyril Lignac is another famous French pastry chef with a patisserie shop in the neighborhood on the rue Bayen.
This pastry shop is also a coffee shop and there are a few tables inside and outside, so you can get a coffee and enjoy your pastry sur place (inside the cafe).
Address : 9 rue Bayen 75017 Paris
Fromageries (Cheese)
Fromagerie Beillevaire
Address : 7 rue Bayen 75017 Paris
Fromagerie Alléosse
Address : 13 rue Poncelet 75017 Paris
Out for Drinks (Apero!)
There are several wonderful spots to go for drinks out in the neighborhood.
L’Ambre Cocktail Bar
L’Ambre Cocktail Bar is cozy and chic, meant to feel like a downtown cocktail bar in 1930s New York.
Opened in 2012, by two former barmen from the prestigious Hôtel Crillon, the cocktail list is unique and refined.
Address : 29 rue Brunel 75017 Paris
Le Dada
Le Dada is a beloved historic bistro located where Avenue des Ternes meets rue Poncelet. It’s the most popular spot for a glass of wine or an Aperol Spritz in the neighborhood.
As soon as the first rays of Spring sunshine poke through, you’ll find everyone in the neighborhood sitting outside with their cute little dogs loving life.
On colder days, head inside to take advantage of the beautiful vintage tiled floors and stunning marble, wood and tiled bar.
Address : 12 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris
Amici
Amici is an Italian wine bar on the Avenue des Ternes. It’s the perfect spot for a glass of Prosecco and some tasty Italian bites.
Their mozzarella fritta is chef’s kiss.
Come for cocktail hour, stay through dinner!
Address : 77 Bis Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris
Restaurants
The Ternes neighborhood is renowned for its restaurants. There are several hidden gems in this area so it will be fun for foodies!
Chez Fred Depuis 1945
Our favorite restaurant in the area by far is Chez Fred 1945. If you book just one dinner out in the area, make it at Chez Fred!
The restaurant is historic in the neighborhood, it was founded in 1945. It is a Lyonnais restaurant but in addition to Lyonnais classics, they offer elevated tradition French fare too, like Boeuf Bourguignon (one of the most delicious dishes that exists in my humble opinion!) and beef tartar.
The owner is there every evening, he is friendly and welcoming, the staff is professional and kind, the interiors are stunning and so typically French, and the food is fabulous.
The prices are reasonable too considering the experience and quality of the food. It’s an all around fabulous restaurant!
Address : 190 Bis Bvd Pereire 75017 Paris
Timgad
Timgad is a historic Moroccan restaurant in the neighborhood. Opened in the 70s, it delivers an authentic Moroccan experience in Paris.
Go there to enjoy really well prepared, special Moroccan dishes like méchoui (slow-cooked lamb shoulder), fish tagine and seafood pastilla.
This is also a good spot to try Moroccan and Algerian wines with your meal.
Address : 21 rue Brunel 75017 Paris
Kirane’s
Another historic restaurant in the neighborhood, Kirane’s is a fabulous restaurant offering authentic Punjabi Indian cuisine since 1976.
Their specialty is Dum; meat or fish put in a large, heavy pot, covered with a layer of rice and/or sauce, sealed with a layer of dough slow cooked to perfection over an open flame.
They offer variations made with chicken, lamb, mixed fish or prawns.
Address : 85 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris
Le Relais de Venise – L’Entrecôte
Le Relais de Venise – L’Entrecôte is best know for its entrecôte (steak).
They don’t take reservations and people line up for dinner each evening, so get there early!
Address : 271 Bvd Pereire 75017 Paris
Dessirier
Dessirier is a fabulously chic fish restaurant in the neighborhood. The perfect spot if you’re in the mood for a seafood platter!
Address : 9 Place du Maréchal Juin 75017 Paris
Petit Bao Ternes
New to the neighborhood, Petit Bao Ternes is a happening spot for laid back, authentic, Chinese dining.
Address : 266 rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré 75008 Paris
Café Miznon
Café Miznon created by chef already has other locations in Paris.
They just opened a sandwich shop in the neighborhood, on rue
Eat in, or take your deli sandwich to go and have a picnic outside!
Address : 9 rue Rennequin 75017 Paris
Schwartz’s Deli
In the mood for diner food in the 17th arrondissement?
Schwartz’s Deli is the place to go!
Enjoy diner fare, from mozzarella sticks, to hamburgers, to Reuben sandwiches and grilled cheese.
Sometimes when I’m missing New York, dinner here really hits the spot!
Address : 22 Avenue Niel 75017 Paris
Mon Petit Poulet
For an excellent rotisserie chicken to go, look no further than Mon Petit Poulet!
They offer fantastic rotisserie chicken, as well traditional American ribs smothered in homemade BBQ sauce.
You can smell them down the street!
Address : 10 rue Saint-Ferdinand 75017 Paris
Coffee shops
Loutsa
Loutsa is our favorite coffee shop in the area!
It’s very small so we mostly get coffee to go but you can sit inside or outside as well.
They serve delicious organic specialty coffee. They also have matcha, chai and hot chocolate.
Address : 11 rue Lebon 75017 Paris
Food markets
There is a covered market and an entire food market street in the neighborhood!
Rue Poncelet
An entire food market street!
Marché Couvert des Ternes, rue Lebon
The Marché Couvert des Ternes is a traditional covered Parisian neighborhood market where you can get fruits, vegetables, fish, meat, and cheese, as well as a variety of prepared foods to bring home.
They have an excellent selection and the vendors are friendly and helpful.
Grocery stores
Naturalia
Naturalia is an orgnaic food shop with several locations dotted around Paris. We buy most of our groceries at Naturalia. If you’ll be doing lots of shopping at Naturalia, it may make sense to purchase their annual membership card which gives you 10% off all purchases at every visit.
Address : 47 rue Guersant 75017 Paris
Bio C Bon
Bio C Bon is another excellent organic grocery store in the neighborhood.
Address : 79 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris
Monoprix
Monoprix is an excellent place to shop for food, wine, a variety of drinks, and even clothing and dishes.
Address : 25 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris
Carrefour Market
This is the best grocery store in the neighborhood to stock up on essentials, such as toilet paper, paper towel, face cotton, things like that.
Address : 3 rue Pierre Demours 75017 Paris
Wine shops
Nicolas
Nicolas is a chain all over France but they have an excellent selection of wines at competitive prices. Their staff are also incredible knowledgable about wine and will be able to make recommendations about wine, wine pairings and Champagne.
Monoprix
Monoprix makes its way onto this list once again!
Monoprix has an excellent selection of wine (including several Champagnes!), as well as a variety of high quality liquor at different price points.
Florists
Deschamps
Deschamps is a stunning flower shop in the neighborhood, famous for its elaborate, seasonal facades.
Deschamps was always known as a stunning florist in the area. A few years ago other businesses such as restaurants and cafes started asking Deschamps if they could decorate their business facades as well, hence the beginning of the floral facades all over Paris that you see on Instagram.
Love them or hate them, there’s no denying that they’ve got talent. I always smile when I walk past Deschamps.
It’s the perfect spot to buy a bouquet. They have a wonderful variety of flowers from which to choose.
This also where we get our Christmas tree each year! They have beautiful ones in a range of sizes, starting in November.
Address : 18 Avenue Niel 75017 Paris
Parks & gardens
Promenade Pereire
Today’s Promenade Pereire was once the train tracks of the ligne d’Auteuil. The train line opened in 1854 and was closed in 1985. It was covered and transformed into the garden that stands there today from 1986-1987.
Currently, the RER C runs underneath the garden.
The garden is beautiful. There is always something blooming, from cherry blossoms, to wisteria (both purple and yellow!), to peonies. The roses during the Spring and Summer are gorgeous!
This is a bit of a secret spots only known by locals in the neighborhood.
Parc Monceau
The Parc Monceau is a beautiful park where dogs are the stars of the show! (Let’s be honest, aren’t they always?!)
Although dogs are not allowed in every part of the park, they are allowed along the main central promenades and around the edges of the park.
Shopping
Avenue des Ternes
You will find all the trendy Parisian boutiques on Avenue des Ternes. If you are looking to shop for cute Parisian clothes, shoes and handbags, head there and you will find everything you need!
Below you’ll find some of my favorite places to shop in the neighborhood …
Bompard
If you’re looking for very high quality cashmere investment pieces in the neighborhood, Bompard is your spot!
They offer a beautiful selection of cashmere sweaters, dresses and coats, as well as smaller accessories such as gloves, hats and scarves.
Address : 44 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris
Jonak
Jonak has quality shoes in a variety of classic and on-trend styles. I love several shoes they release each season.
Address : 20 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris
Mellow Yellow
Mellow Yellow has really nice shoes too!
Address : 65 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris
Caroll
This is a great shop for cute casual clothing, as well as some dressier options. I love their coats, cashmere sweaters and cotton pants.
Address : 21 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris
Aesop
Aesop is a chic Australian brand that offers divine body soaps, hand soaps, hand creams, hair products, face products and more!
I am literally obsessed with the Eleos Nourishing Body Cleanser! It is definitely a guilty pleasure.
Address : 46 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris
Souvenirs
The places below are fun to shop for cute Parisian souvenirs you’ll actually enjoy once you get home, as well as high quality gifts for your loved ones from Paris.
Monoprix
Monoprix is such a fun place to shop for souvenirs and gifts to bring to loved ones.
It is a grocery store but it also has really cute (and high quality!) clothings, tote bags, shoes, dishes and cute Parisian souvenirs.
Address : 25 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris
Mariage-Frères
Mariage-Frères is the most famous tea shop in Paris. They have an excellent selection of delicious, high-quality teas in beautifully chic tins.
The teas from Mariage-Frères make wonderful souvenirs to bring home, as well as excellent gifts from Paris.
There are a few Mariage-Frères tea shops around Paris. The one near Ternes also has a tea salon where you can sit down to have a cup of tea, have lunch, go for brunch or pop in for an authentic afternoon tea.
Address : 260 rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré 75008 Paris
Pharmacies
There is practically a pharmacy on every corner in this neighborhood where you can find a range of items, from medicine, to bandaids, to personal care products and more.
If you need to see a doctor (but it’s not an emergency waranting a trip to the ER), you can pop into certain pharmacies and have a video consultation with a doctor on the spot.
Also, pharmacies can offer a range of tests and vaccines in France and always have knowledgable and trained pharmacists on hand who can offer help with a range of issues so don’t hesitate to pop in and ask about any issue you are having.
Most pharmacies have at least one pharmacist who speaks English on hand.
Activities to book in advance
Arc de Triomphe
Dinner reservations
Restaurants in Paris can fill up in advance, so it’s always worth it to book in advance if there is a restaurant you’d really like to experience while you’re here. That being said, if you don’t have a reservation and decide you want to go, definitely try just going to the restaurant to see if you can get a last minute spot.
More Paris posts to help you plan your trip
Non-Touristy Things to Do in Paris
Couples Turkish Bath Experience in Paris
Specialty Coffee Shops in Paris
Ternes Wagram Pereire Neighborhood Guide
Enjoy your trip to Paris!
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